White Cap Mountain by Greg Westrich

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This is a bonus hike for Best Easy Day Hikes Greenville. The only bad review I’ve ever gotten on Amazon was someone complaining that almost none of the hikes in this guide are easy. Well, White Cap isn’t either. It’s a moderate hike. A 6.6 miles out and back with 2112 feet of climbing.

White Cap Mountain from Chairback Mountain

White Cap Mountain from Chairback Mountain

At 3654 feet, White Cap is the highest mountain between the Bigelows and Katahdin. From its open summit, you have spectacular panoramic views. The mountain is visible from as far away as Bangor. In early winter and spring, it’s bare summit holds snow sooner and longer, thus its name.

There are three ways to get there. Twenty five years ago the most common way was to drive to High Bridge off the K-I road. The road continued up into a high valley at the foot of White Cap. It had been a log yard and was covered with young, shrubby hardwoods. It was a great place to find moose. From there you took White Brook Trail, climbing into the saddle between Hay and White Cap Mountains. This trail was the old fire wardens trail. It’s a very steep trail. Today, the forest has returned and the road is undrivable beyond High Bridge. It’s almost three miles from there to the White Brook Trailhead. Needless the say, this route has fallen out of favor.

You can also get to White Cap by following the Appalachian Trail from the Gulf Hagas Trailhead north to the summit. That’s more than a twenty mile out and back. The third option is the best and the one described here.

Drive north on Lily Bay Road from the blinking light in Greenville. Drive 17.7 miles. Just before reaching Katadjo and Roach River, turn right onto Frenchtown Road. Drive 13.8 miles. Stay straight ahead on Frenchtown Road the whole time. There’s one section between two bridges where the road passes between the West Branch Ponds. The road here is narrower and rougher. Otherwise, the road is wide and well-maintained. My Honda Fit made it with no problem. Park on the shoulder just before the gate across the road. The trailhead is the gate. (The first 0.4 miles of the hike are on the road beyond the gate.) Trailhead GPS: N45° 34.600' W69° 13.818'

0.0 Gate across Frenchtown Road.

0.4 Follow the road to the Appalachian Trail. Turn right (southbound) onto the AT.

1.2 Climb steadily then more gradually to a small brook.

2.0 After crossing the brook, you’ll hear Logan Brook below you. The trail climbs gently on the side-hill above the brook. Most of the time you can only hear it tumbling over rocks and its gravel bed. Pass the side trail to the privy. Just past that the trail makes a hard left at Logan Brook Lean-to. Before continuing, follow a trail down to the brook in front of the lean-to. It ends at a nice pool at the base of a small but picturesque waterfall.

Waterfall in front of Logan Brook lean-to

Waterfall in front of Logan Brook lean-to

2.3 The trail turns away from Logan Brook and climbs steadily to the crown of a ridge. The trail turns right and follows the ridge.

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2.4 Climb more gently. The trail passes an overlook with a great view of Logan Brook’s deep valley and the woods to the north.


2.7 Climb steadily above the headwaters of Logan Brook, which noisily drops from the mountainside below the trail.

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3.1 Climb steadily. Lots of steps. The trees become all spruce and get shorter. Almost without realizing it, you have views in every direction except straight ahead. You can see Big and Little Spencer to the northwest and Katahdin to the northeast. To the east is a group of rugged untrailed mountains.

Looking east from near the summit

Looking east from near the summit

Looking northwest from near the summit. That’s Little and Big Spencer Mountains across Spencer Bay (of Moosehead Lake)

Looking northwest from near the summit. That’s Little and Big Spencer Mountains across Spencer Bay (of Moosehead Lake)

3.3 The trail loops around the spruce-covered summit, staying on open rock. The trail reaches the summit atop a slope of loose rock (this is the white cap visible from Bangor). The Appalachian Trail continues southbound across Hay and Gulf Hagas Mountains before descending to Pleasant River. But your hike is at its end.

The view west from the summit. Looking across Hay and Gulf Hagas Mountains to the Lily Bay Mountains

The view west from the summit. Looking across Hay and Gulf Hagas Mountains to the Lily Bay Mountains

Looking southeast from the summit across Pleasant River valley to the Barren-Chairback Range

Looking southeast from the summit across Pleasant River valley to the Barren-Chairback Range

Table Rock in Grafton Notch by Greg Westrich

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Table Rock is a short, steep hike to a ledge that hangs out over the east side of Grafton Notch. The hike is a 2.2 miles loop with 982 feet of climbing. Here’s the annotated mile by mile description:

Lots of steps

Lots of steps

0.0 From the parking area in Grafton Notch, cross ME26 and head up the northbound Appalachian Trail. The trail crosses a wet area on boardwalks that’s the headwaters of Swift Cambridge River.

0.1 Bear right onto Table Rock Trail. The trail begins to climb almost immediately. There are lots of steps but not views yet. Even though the trail quickly tops cliffs and bedrock, you’re still in the dense hardwood forest.

0.7 Reach the first overlook atop a spine of exposed bedrock.

0.8 A short side trail leads to an overlook known as the Drop Off. It’s a long way straight down from the viewpoint. You have a great view out the notch and of Old Speck across the way.

View from the Drop Off!

View from the Drop Off!

0.9 The trail climbs a set of rungs and makes a hard right, passing under a boulder. Instead of following the trail, climb straight ahead. When you climb up the rock in front of you, you’ll be standing atop the entrance to the cave. You can also climb more and get a view straight up at Table Rock.

Henry standing at the entrance to the cave

Henry standing at the entrance to the cave

Looking out of the cave to Henry standing in the entrance

Looking out of the cave to Henry standing in the entrance

I spent my twenties and thirties caving in Kentucky, Indiana, and West Virginia. This is nothing like the limestone solutional caves there. This cave is really just gaps beneath a loose pile of bedrock slabs. Still, it’s the largest cave I’ve seen in Maine. It’s not as deep and closed up as Debsconeag Ice Caves, but pretty cool nonetheless.

After exploring the cave, follow the trail under the boulder to the base of a high cliff. Look up and note the narrow fin of rock sticking out. You can look down from Table Rock and see this feature, giving you some perspective on the mountainside.

Where the trail squeezes out from under the boulders

Where the trail squeezes out from under the boulders

1.0 The trail drops down along the edge of the cliffs, then climbs to a junction. To the right is the continuation of Table Rock Trail. To the left, in 100 feet is Table Rock.

Henry looking down into Grafton Notch from Table Rock.

Henry looking down into Grafton Notch from Table Rock.

The Eyebrow from Table Rock

The Eyebrow from Table Rock

Looking out the notch past Sunday River Whitecap (right) and Puzzle Mountain (left, farther away)

Looking out the notch past Sunday River Whitecap (right) and Puzzle Mountain (left, farther away)

1.5 To get back to the trailhead continue north on Table Rock Trail. The trial descends down a rock using rungs then is fairly level and straight to the Appalachian Trail. Turn left.

2.2 Arrive back at the trailhead. Now all you need to do is visit Puzzle Mountain Bakery on your way home.

The best roadside treats in Maine

The best roadside treats in Maine

Schoodic Bog Loop by Greg Westrich

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Frenchman Bay Conservancy (FBC) has several contiguous preserves between Schoodic Mountain and US1 along Punkinville Road. They are Tucker Mountain, Baker Hill, Long Ledges, Dutchman, and Schoodic Bog. The Downeast Sunrise Trail abuts the north end of Schoodic Bog Preserve. As a result, you can hike from Baker Hill’s trailhead all the way to Schoodic Mountain.

Schoodic Mountain from Downeast Sunrise Trail

Schoodic Mountain from Downeast Sunrise Trail

Actually, you can hike all the way from Baker Hill to the Catherine Mountain trailhead on Dynamite Brook Road. You’d climb Baker Hill, Schoodic Mountain, Black Mountain, Black Mountain Bald, Caribou Mountain, and a side trip to Catherine Mountain. You’d end about a mile from Tunk Mountain Trailhead. That’s a lot of great hiking. A bit much for one day, but I have a hankering to give it a try.

Recently, FBC cut a new trail so that you can do the Schoodic Bog section as a loop. To get to the trailhead, follow US1 north (kay, it’s really east) from Ellsworth. Turn left onto Punkinville Road. It’s 3.8 miles past the bridge over Tuanton River and just before Sumner High School. Drive 2.1 miles (passing Baker Hill and Long Ledges Preserves). Turn left onto Punkin Ledge Road where the pavement ends. Drive 0.9 miles. Turn left onto Schoodic Bog Road (there’s a street sign and a sign for the preserve). Parking is on the right at the top of the hill.

The hike begins with a short road walk back the way you came. You’ll end the hike at the trailhead across the road from the parking area.

Annotated mile by mile description:

0.0 Walk down Schoodic Bog Road the way you drove in. In 400 feet turn left onto Punkin Ledge Road.

0.2 Walk about a tenth of a mile up the road. There’s no trailhead sign, but lots of blue flagging at the trailhead. Turn left onto Punkin Ledge Trail.

0.6 The trail winds through the woods on a sidehill above the bog (which is out of sight). You pass near an open ledge without a view. The trail drops to and crosses a wet, mossy area at the edge of Schoodic Bog.

1.5 The trail zig zags gently climbing ledges abounding in blueberries and scraggly pines. You begin to get semi-open views of Schoodic Mountain. The trail is new and little used, so the footbed really isn’t a trail yet. The route is easy to follow because of all the blue and red flagging. Also, the trailbuilders used dead wood to help make the trail more obvious.

fat, juicy blueberries along the trail

fat, juicy blueberries along the trail

From one of the ledges

From one of the ledges

1.7 The trail climbs increasingly open ledges with great views. Then you descend through white pines to Downeast Sunrise Trail. Turn left onto that multi-use trail.

View from final ledge

View from final ledge

2.0 Follow the DST west through Schoodic Bog. There’s lots of beaver sign and an active osprey nest on the right. You have great views of Schoodic Mountain.

Schoodic Mountain from Downeast Sunrise Trail

Schoodic Mountain from Downeast Sunrise Trail

The osprey nest. Notice the osprey in the top right quadrant of the picture

The osprey nest. Notice the osprey in the top right quadrant of the picture

2.3 In the center of the bog is a good-sized area of open water. As you pass it, there’s a picnic area on the left. Rough trails wander from the picnic area along the shore of the bog.

A good place to see wildlife, especially in the morning

A good place to see wildlife, especially in the morning

2.5 Continue hiking west on Downeast Sunrise Trail. Turn left onto Schoodic Connector. (If you turn right you could loop around behind the bog and climb Schoodic Mountain). The intersection is marked for ATVs but there’s no trail sign. This section of Schoodic Connector is a roadbed.

2.7 The trail is blocked by a beaver dam. Turn right onto a footpath and descend beside Long Pond Brook. Cross the brook on a bridge below a small waterfall and return to the roadbed on the other side of the beaver dam.

The small waterfall (didn’t make the cut for my Hiking Maine’s Waterfalls)

The small waterfall (didn’t make the cut for my Hiking Maine’s Waterfalls)

3.2 Follow the roadbed, which is really rocky to an intersection with Schoodic Bog Road. Turn left onto it and then immediately turn right onto Schoodic Connector Trail at the sign.

3.6 The trail climbs to and then crosses several dry ledges with partial views. Lots of blueberries again. When I hike this section most recently, there were several very large, fresh bear scats on the trail. At the last ledge, there’s a bench with a fine view of Schoodic Mountain.

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3.7 Reach a three-way intersection. Turn left toward the parking area. If you go right, you’ll eventually pass Long Pond and enter Long Ledge Preserve in about 2 miles.

4.0 Descend gently across a series of ledges in the woods. Reach the trailhead across the road from the parking area.

Ladders and Headwalls and Slides, Oh My! by Greg Westrich

This is the beginning of a list or the most terrifying trails in Maine. New Hampshire has lists for everything--4000 footers, 52 With A View, Terrifying 25, etc. Maine needs some good lists to get more people out and hiking in our gorgeous state. Someone else is working on a list that's the equivalent to New Hampshire's 52 With A View. I thought we needed one that highlighted the trails that we love to get scared by. You know those that climb a cirque headwall or have lots of ladders, or climb steep slides, or have lots of iron rungs.

Loop Trail on Tumbledown--yeah, the trail goes through that

Loop Trail on Tumbledown--yeah, the trail goes through that

Here's the basic ground rules. The trail needs to meet at least one of the following criteria. 

1) The trail needs to climb a headwall so that the hiker is climbing--as opposed to hiking--with some exposure.

2) The trail needs to have multiple ladders and rungs or one that's a doozy.

3) The trail needs to make use of a slide that is long and steep. Again, with some exposure.

4) The trail needs to be in some way extremely vertical with exposure.

5) The trail goes through boulders so that the hiker needs to crawl and climb.

6) It has to be an official trail.

What doesn't count are trails that reach a cliff top or skirt the edge of a cliff or rock fall.

Simple, enough?

Descending The Owl

Descending The Owl

By the end of the year, I'll have a final list and post how to get the patch for completing it. The list also needs a cleaver and original name.

The Precipice Trail

The Precipice Trail

Here's what I have so far, as vetted by my family and folks on Facebook:

Western Maine

1. Mahoosuc Notch

2. East Baldpate (AT between East and West Baldpates)

3. Tumbledown (Loop Trail)

4. Eye Brow 

Baxter State Park

5. Hunt Trail

6. Abol Trail

7. Cathedral Trail

8. Knife Edge

9. The Owl

10. Hamlin Ridge

11. Doubletop (Doubletop Mountain Trail between summit and Slaughter Pond Trail)

12. Mt Coe slide

Lots of people want The Traveler on the list. It's one of the best hikes on the planet, but I don't think it qualifies for this list.

Acadia National Park

13. Precipice Trail

14. Orange and Black Trail

15. Beehive

16. Canada Cliffs (Canada Cliffs Trail from Echo Lake to Beech Cliffs Loop)

17. Ladder Trail

18. Cadillac West Face

19. Jordan Cliffs Trail

20. Pemetic NW Trail


21. Pulpit Rock (it's a side trail off the Bold Coast Trail)

Moosehead Region

22. Little Spencer Mountain

23. Big Spencer Mountain

24. Borestone Mountain

25. Eagle Rock

Descending Borestone's West Peak

Descending Borestone's West Peak

Feel Free to comment on my selections and suggest others. The more the merrier. 

The Freezeout by Greg Westrich


There’s a hike missing from Hiking Maine’s Baxter State Park. The guide includes all the trails in the park—except those in the Scientific Management Area. I had planned to include a three-day trip there that includes most of the trails in the area.

Eight year old Henry at the trailhead

Eight year old Henry at the trailhead


In 2010 my son Henry and I backpacked up the Wadleigh Brook Trail, across the Freezeout, and back on the Frost Pond Trail. It was his first backpacking trip (the trip is the part of Katahdin, Henry & Me that’s available on my website). I decided to rehike and map the trip with my daughter Emma for Hiking Maine’s Baxter State Park. The Wadleigh Brook Trail—even in August—was mostly under water. Seemed like the beavers had been busy. It was also the buggiest trip I’ve ever done. I didn’t feel comfortable including it in the book, but every time I pick up a copy of the book it feels incomplete to me. So, here’s the missing hike. Repeat it if you dare.


The hike begins at the Wadleigh Brook Trailhead along the Tote Road 1.0 miles west of South Branch Road (and 8.0 miles from the Matagamon Gate). The Wadleigh Brook Trail follows Wadleigh Stream. For the first few miles the stream is out of view. The trail crosses several low ledges, wet mossy areas, and mature hardwood forests with an understory of ferns. Then it gets wet. The trail passes between Wadleigh Stream and a marsh. Both seem to have been enlarged by beavers. In several places, the trail is simply gone—you stand there looking across a shallow, tree-filled pond. In the distance in a tree with a blaze. Good luck keeping your feet dry.

Where's the next blaze?

Where's the next blaze?


Eventually, the trail crosses the Wadleigh Mountain Road near the Blunder Pond picnic area. On the north side of the road, the trail skirts the edge of an area logged about 15 years ago. In places the trail is buried beneath ferns that grow four feet tall. Back in the woods, the trail skirts around two beaver flowages before reaching the east end of Hudson Pond. The Hudson Pond lean-to sits in a stand of mature hardwoods upslope from the pond. There’s a canoe for campers on the shore.

Hudson Pond

Hudson Pond


The next day, you hike northwest to where the Wadleigh Brook Trail ends at the Freezeout Trail. The last quarter mile was relocated in 2016 to skirt around a huge blowdown caused by a small tornado that was part of the huge thunderstorm that damaged several areas of Baxter in August 2014. (Henry and I were caught in the storm and just missed getting buried under a blowdown near Deer Pond on the Doubletop Mountain Trail.)


Follow the Freezeout Trail east along the south shore of Webster Stream. The trail follows an old road that was used until 1960 when this area became part of the park. You’ll find corduroy logs in the west areas. In several places, the woods are littered with iron cables and the rusted remnants of tools.


About a mile before you reach Grand Pitch, the trail drops away from the old roadbed—which bears southeast towards Trout Brook Farm. The stream quickens. The overgrown banks give way to black slate. You pass smaller falls and black sand beaches before reaching Grand Pitch. The falls are a roaring thirty foot drop broken by slate ledges and boulders.

Grand Pitch

Grand Pitch


From there, it’s a short walk to the Little East lean-to at the confluence of Webster Stream and the East Branch of the Penobscot River.


The third day begins with a walk along a roadbed that follows the shore of Grand Lake Matagamon. Turn off the Freezeout Trail and follow Frost Pond Trail west. The trail climbs gently, crossing a nasty wetland before reaching Frost Pond. There’s a lean-to in a stand of red pines just back from the shore. There’s a canoe, but it’s only for people who camp at the lean-to.


Past the pond, the trail crosses a series of rough ledges and skirts around a beaver flowage. You don’t seem to be gaining any elevation, but pretty soon you walk out onto Wadleigh Mountain’s long summit ridge. There are only partial views to the south. The summit ridge is rocky and dry, covered with twisted pines and scratchy lichen. Quite a change from the rest of the hike.

On Wadleigh Mountain

On Wadleigh Mountain


The descent off the mountain is relatively steep. You drop back down into the swampy hardwood forest, cross a road and arrive back at the Wadleigh Brook Trail. It’s an easy 1.4 miles back to the trailhead.

Trail sign scratched apart by a bear

Trail sign scratched apart by a bear


The entire hike is 25.3 miles. It is very remote. The fire rings at Little East had weeds growing in them. Not a lot of people visit this area. On the two hikes I’ve made here, I’ve seen lots of bear and moose sign. Henry and I found a kingfisher nest in the rocky bank of Webster Stream. Beavers are everywhere. If you’re willing to get wet feet and suffer bug bites, it’s a great escape.

I took a picture of Henry crossing this same ledge six years earlier.

I took a picture of Henry crossing this same ledge six years earlier.


Day One:

0.0 The Wadleigh Brook Trailhead is on the north side of the Tote Road 1.0 miles west of the bridge over Trout Brook.

1.4 Pass Frost Pond Trail.

3.5 Cross a beaver dam.

5.3 Arrive at Wadleigh Bog.

7.4 Cross Wadleigh Mountain Road.

8.3 The trail skirts around a beaver flowage.

8.7 Bear left toward Hudson Pond, which is visible through the trees.

9.0 Arrive at Hudson Pond Lean-to.

Wadleigh Brook--notice the blackflies on Emma.

Wadleigh Brook--notice the blackflies on Emma.

Day Two:

0.0 The Wadleigh BrookTrail leaves Hudson Pond and heads northwest towards Webster Stream.

2.0 Turn right onto the Freezeout Trail. OPTION: You can turn left and hike two miles to Webster Lake. There’s a lean-to at the end of the trail.

3.9 Pass Webster Stream lean-to.

6.7 The trail leaves the old roadbed and follows Webster Stream.

7.7 Arrive a Grand Pitch.

8.2 Arrive at Little East lean-to and campsites.

Some serious ferns

Some serious ferns

Day Three:

0.0 The day begins following an old roadbed along the shore of Grand Lake Matagamon.

1.6 Turn right onto Frost Pond Trial.

3.1 The trail climbs gently, crossing a nasty marsh before reaching Frost Pond.

4.4 Cross several rocky ledges and skirt around a beaver flowage.

6.1 Arrive at the summit of Wadleigh Mountain.

6.7 Descend steeply, cross a logging road, and arrive back at the Wadleigh Brook Trail. Turn left to return to the trailhead.

8.1 Arrive back at the trailhead.

Bald Rock Mountain and Frohock Mountain in Camden Hills State Park by Greg Westrich

Hike  19 in Best Easy Day Hikes Camden is Bald Rock Mountain. This description is an extension of that hike that also includes Derry and Frohock Mountains.

Bald Rock Mountain has a spectacular view of the coast from the Penobscot River to Owl's Head. Islands dot the ocean like the clouds drifting overhead--Vinalhaven, North Haven, Isleboro, Isle au Haut, MDI. The best part is that you often have to summit to yourself even while Mounts Battie and Megunticook at the other end of the Camden Hills are mobbed with people.

The view from the summit, looking across Isleboro toward MDI

The view from the summit, looking across Isleboro toward MDI

To get to the trailhead from the junction of US1 and ME173 in Lincolnville, drive 2.2 away from the coast on ME173. Turn left on Youngstown Road and immediately turn left again into the parking area.

0.0 miles. The trail follows the Ski Lodge Trail--really a gravel road--uphill.

0.5 miles. Pass the Frohock Mountain Trail. You'll come out there at the end of the hike.

1.3 miles. Turn left onto the Bald Rock Trail.

2.1 miles. Climb steadily through towering pines to the summit.

Spend enough time on the summit to identify all the islands and features in the panorama. On the summit look for blueberries, hilltopping butterflies, and patrolling of dragonflies.

Looking up the coast to Camden harbor with Owl's Head in the distance

Looking up the coast to Camden harbor with Owl's Head in the distance

2.3 miles. Continue across Bald Rock Mountain, descending past two old lean-tos, a privy, and a small cave.

The cave

The cave

2.7 miles. Descend more steeply to the end of the Bald Rock Trail. Turn right onto the Frohock Mountain Trail.

3.5 miles. From the junction, the trail descends slightly then climbs switchbacks to the wooded summit of Derry Mountain.

The view from Derry Mountain is of beautiful mature trees all around

The view from Derry Mountain is of beautiful mature trees all around

4.6 miles. Descend off Derry Mountain, then climb Frohock Mountain. The trail ends at the summit. Again, the view is of the forest.

6.5 miles. Head back to the junction with Bald Rock Trail. Turn right, staying on Frohock Mountain Trail.

6.8 miles. Descend to Ski Lodge Trail. Turn right to return to the trailhead.

7.3 miles. Arrive back at the trailhead.

The hike has 1841 feet of total ascent. About half of that is getting to Bald Rock Mountain. The other half is along Frohock Mountain Trail.

Downeast coastal "mountains" by Greg Westrich

Washington county isn't known for its mountains. East of the mountains around Tunk Lake and Donnell Pond, the land flattens.  There are nice views from Pigeon Hill (Hike 17 in Hiking Maine) and Schoodlic Head (see my blog post on Buck Cove Mountain), but those are both in eastern Hancock county.

Looking east from Pigeon Hill

Looking east from Pigeon Hill

There are four small "mountains" in Washington county with views of the coast worth hiking.

First are Bell's and Crane Mountains along the west shore of Cobscook Bay, near the state park.

The rocky shoulder of Bell's Mountain

The rocky shoulder of Bell's Mountain

To get the trailheads, drive north on US1 from the junction with ME189 in Whiting. Drive 2.8 miles. Turn left onto Bell's Mountain Road. The trailhead is on the left in a wide, flat area 0.2 miles from US1. Follow the loop trail clockwise. The trail climbs gently to a semi-open area on the shoulder of the mountain with partial views of Cobscook Bay, especially Tide Mill Farm. The trail continues over the mountain and loop back around to the trailhead. Be warned: beyond the summit, the trail is indistinct and hard to follow. Less adventurous hikers might want to do and out and back.

Bell's Mountain's wooded summit

Bell's Mountain's wooded summit

The whole loop is 0.7 miles. An out and back to the summit is about the same distance.

To get to Crane Mountain from Bell's Mountain. Continue northwest on Bell's Mountain Road. Drive 0.6 miles to a fork. Bear right, climbing the unmarked road. In 0.1 miles reach the end of the road. There is a large, weathered sign at the trailhead. 

Approaching the overlook on Crane Mountain

Approaching the overlook on Crane Mountain

The Crane Mountain trail is a 0.7 miles loop. Like Bell's Mountain trail, it is little used and hard to follow in places beyond the overlook. From the trailhead to the overlook is 0.2 miles. From the overlook, you have a fine view of the rolling hills and bogs inland from Cobscook Bay.

Crane Mountain looks and feels very different from Bell's Mountain. The forest is less overgrown-instead of lush moss, everything is covered with scratchy lichen.

In Hamilton Cove Preserve, along the coast west of Quoddy Head, is Benny's Mountain (Porcupine Hill on some maps). This 2.4 miles out and back hike offers fine views of the marshy Hamilton Brook and the coastline. To get to the trailhead, follow ME189 east from Whiting. Drive 5.8 miles. Turn right onto Dixie Road at the sign for the Bold Coast. Drive 2.7 miles. Turn left onto Boot Cove Road. Drive 3.5 miles. The Hamilton Cove Preserve parking is on the right. 

From the trailhead, walk 250 feet to a fourway intersection. If you turn left, you can follow the 1.4 mile Hamilton Cove Trail. If you go straight, in 250 feet you arrive at a cobbled beach. For this hike turn right. In another 250 feet, turn right again. (If you bear left here, you can follow the Meadow Trail 0.2 miles to a different cobbled beach. This trail crosses a large meadow and is worth exploring.)

The beach at the end of the Meadow Trail, looking east across Hamilton Cove

The beach at the end of the Meadow Trail, looking east across Hamilton Cove

0.1 miles past the second intersection, you'll cross Boot Cove Road. Across the road, the trail goes through an overgrown meadow before entering the woods. In the woods are numerous large trees, including one of the biggest birches I've ever seen.

The trail begins to climb gently. On the rocky shoulder of Porcupine Hill, the trail forks. Turn right. In a short distance, there's an overlook. Unlike Bell's and Crane Mountains, Porcupine Hill is covered with hardwoods.

Hamilton Cove from the overlook

Hamilton Cove from the overlook

The trail continues in a loop around the hilltop before arriving back at the fork. On your return to the coast, take time to explore the Meadow Trail and the Hamilton Cove Trail.

The view of Quoddy Head from the end of the Hamilton Cove Trail

The view of Quoddy Head from the end of the Hamilton Cove Trail

The fourth "mountain" hike along the Downeast coast is Klondike Mountain. To get to the trailhead, drive east on ME189 from US1 in Whiting. Drive 9.0 miles. Turn left onto North Lubec Road. Drive 1.0 miles. The Klondike Mountain Preserve parking is on the hilltop on the left.

The trail descends through a meadow and orchard to a junction. Turn right. The climb up Klondike Mountain is short and rocky.

The 360 degree view from the top takes in several arms of Cobscook Bay.

Looking west to South Bay at low tide

Looking west to South Bay at low tide

Looking north beyond South Bay to the main body of Cobscook Bay

Looking north beyond South Bay to the main body of Cobscook Bay

From the summit, the trail zig zags south, descending toward Fowler Mill Pond--an arm of South Bay. At low tide the old mill dam is visible reaching across the mud flat. 0.2 miles beyond the summit, pass a trail on the left and continue along the shore of Fowler Mill Pond. There is access to the shore in two places.

The mill dam seen from the shoulder of Klondike Mountain

The mill dam seen from the shoulder of Klondike Mountain

From the end of the trail, it's 0.5 miles back to the trailhead. On the return hike, turn right at both intersections. The whole hike is 1.2 miles.

The Downeast coast between Machias and Lubec offers lots of great hiking. In addition to these four "mountains" are numerous hikes to the Bold Coast and its coves and cliffs. Maybe someday my publisher will contract me to write a guide to the forty best. It'll involve some tough choices. In the meantime, everyone should head east and explore.

Henderson Brook by Greg Westrich

This is a bonus hike for my Best Easy Day Hikes Greenville. It's one of the few hikes that is actually easy.

This easy hike follows Henderson Brook from where it drops out of a boggy valley and races through a narrow canyon. The trail criss-crosses the stream as it flows against one then the other side of the canyon. You can follow the trail all the way out to the KI Road or hike as far as the last stream crossing and return the way you came.

Start: From the Henderson Brook Trailhead, between the parking area and the bridge over Henderson Brook.

Distance: 1.8 miles out and back or 1.1 miles shuttle.

Approximate hiking time: 1 to 2 hours.

Difficulty: Easy.

Seasons: May to October are best.

Trail surface: Woodland Path.

Land Status: AMC Recreation and Conservation Area and Appalachian Trail.

Nearest Town: Greenville.

Other users: Hunting is permitted in season.

Water availability: Henderson Brook.

Canine compatibility: Dogs must be under control at all times.

Fees and permits: Fee paid at the Hedgehog Gate on the KI Road.

Maps: Delorme's The Maine Atlas and Gazetteer map 41; USGS Barren Mountain East.

Trail Contact: Appalachian Mountain Club, Greenville office, 695-3085, http://www.outdoors.org.

Finding the trailhead: From the blinking light in Greenville. Drive north on Lily Bay Road. Almost immediately turn right onto Pleasant Street. Drive 12.3 miles to the Hedgehog Gate. After paying your fee continue another 1.7 miles to a T-intersection. Turn right, staying on the KI Road toward AMC Gorman Lodge. Drive 3.4 miles. Turn right onto Third Mountain Road at the sign for Gorman Lodge. Drive 0.8 miles. The trailhead parking is on the left just before the trail and 0.1 miles before the bridge over Henderson Brook. Trailhead GPS: N45° 28.052' W69° 18.644'.

The Hike

Henderson Brook flows under Third Mountain Road just beyond the trailhead. Upstream from bridge, the stream meanders through a boggy meadow between dark walls of spruce. Below the bridge the stream turns back on itself, looking more like a weedy pond than moving water. But as you discover once on the trail, it is moving. Henderson Brook looks like a pond because it's backed up behind a ridge of bedrock. It tumbles over the rock in a small waterfall just into the trees.

The trail follows Henderson Brook as it descends through a narrow canyon. You cross and recross the trail. The steep sides are mossy cliffs in places and broken slopes too steep for trees in others. The floor of the canyon is littered with boulders of every size.

Geologically, Henderson Brook's little canyon is related to nearby Gulf Hagas. The difference is mostly in scale. Where Gulf Hagas is awe-inspiring, something one can only speak of in superlatives, this hike traverses a landscape that is accessible. The eye picks out a moss-draped cliff that seems to droop into the stream, a house-sized boulder perched beside the water that looks like you could push it over, a patch of ferns huddled against the slope where water seeps from the rock.

After the second stream crossing, the trail climbs away from Henderson Brook to an old roadbed. If you're doing an out and back hike, this is a good place to turn around. If you're continuing on to the KI Road, follow the roadbed back down to Henderson Brook. You have to find a place to cross—which can be a challenge, especially during high water. Across the stream, it's a short hike to the AT and out to the road.

Miles and Directions:

0.0 Start from the Henderson Brook Trailhead on the east side of Third Mountain Road between the parking area and the bridge over Henderson Brook.

0.9 The trail follows the stream, crossing twice, to an unaided crossing that may be impossible during high water. If you are hiking the trail as an out and back. Return the way you came to the trailhead, arriving back at the trailhead in 1.8 miles.

1.0 The Henderson Brook Trail ends at the AT. Turn left onto the AT.

1.1 Arrive at the KI Road.

Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island by Greg Westrich

This is a bonus hike for my guide Best Easy Day Hikes Portland.

Start: From the trailhead at the back of the parking area

Distance: 2.8 miles lollipop

Approximate hiking time: 1-2 hours

Difficulty: Easy

Seasons: Beautiful in every season

Trail surface: Woodland path

Land Status: Bonyun Preserve of the Kennebec Estuary Land Trust

Nearest Town:Westport Island. Services in Wiscasset

Other users: None

Water availability: None

Canine compatibility: Dogs are not allowed in Bonyun Preserve.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits are required.

Maps: Delorme's The Maine Atlas and Gazetteer map 7

Trail Contact: Kennebec Estuary Land Trust, www.kennebecestuary.org, 442-8400

Finding the trailhead: From the junction of US1 and ME 144 between Wiscasset and Woolrich, drive south on ME 144 onto Westport Island. Ten miles from US 1 turn left onto West Shore Road. (You will have passed the other end of West Shore Road at about mile 6.) The trailhead is a quarter of a mile down West Shore Road on the left. Trailhead GPS: N43° 52.602' W69° 43.123'.

The Bonyun Preserve trails follow the west shore of Mill Cove Creek to Thomas Point. There are fine views of Knubble Bay and the jumble of islands in it. The hike passes an old mill dam across Mill Cove (thus its name). There's a great information sign about the history of the area there. 

Miles and Directions:

0.0 Trailhead at the back of the parking area, next to the information sign.

0.3 Reach Mill Cove Creek

0.5 Follow the east shore of the creek to its head.

1.2 Follow the west shore of the creek/cove through piney woods to the old mill dam.

1.4 Reach Thomas Point, a rocky knubble covered with twisted pines. Great views of the surrounding waters, including the mouth of Robinhood Cove on Georgetown Island.

1.9 Leave the shore.

2.8 Arrive back at the trailhead.

Along the hike, you're likely to see various gulls and waterbirds--and maybe even an eagle or osprey.

Spring River Lake by Greg Westrich

Paddling is just hiking in a boat.

For the Fourth, we headed down to Spring River Lake--one of numerous ponds and lakes in the Donnell Pond Reserved Land. There's a boat launch and a small beach about a mile east of the Tunk Mountain Trailhead on ME 182. There's a small sandy beach next to the boat launch. Mostly, the shore of the lake is camp-free. We only saw a few motor boats during the half day we were on the water. But we did see lots of other things.

From the water, you get great views of Catherine and Tunk Mountains.

Tunk Mountain from an island in the lake's southern arm.

Tunk Mountain from an island in the lake's southern arm.

The shore of the lake is mostly rocky with sand banks and beaches here and there. On the west side of the lake about a mile from the boat launch, a small stream tumbles in. The stream connects Spring River Lake with Tunk Lake. The stream's clear water and sandy bottom is popular with sun fish. The fish--some at least eight inches long--come up and nibble on you as you stand in the water.

We pulled our boats up on the rocks at the mouth of the stream and had lunch. Ebony Jewelwing damselflies flitted about and the stream burbled over rocks, as towering clouds drifted overhead. During lunch a bald eagle sat across the cove atop a white pine. Later, it drifted over us to a different pine up the shore from us, where bluejays harried it. A mother common merganser with her four chicks swam by. The female would dip her head into the water, then each chick would do the same.

Henry and Emma watch the mergansers

Henry and Emma watch the mergansers

While Ann relaxed on a rock, Henry, Emma, and I explored up the stream. Bright green and scarlet vegetation swung in the current, clinging to the rocky streambed. Around a bouldery bend, the stream opened up into a small pond with a huge granite monolith jutting out of it. Sun fish protected their small territories of sandy bottom in the pond. Beyond that was a shallow deadwater with a beaver dam on the far side. We had great views of both Catherine and Tunk Mountains. 

Catherine Mountain across the deadwater

Catherine Mountain across the deadwater

After lunch, we paddled north to where the lake forms a T. The steady breeze was pushing waves at us. We stopped at a boulder sticking out of the water before heading back. We never really explored either arm of the T. The eastern one was narrow--more like a languid stream; the western wide and dotted with camps on the south shore.

On the way back we stopped at a low island so Emma could swim a little more.

On the island I discovered a patch of beautiful orchids growing in the spongy ground amid the sedges.

Close up of one of the rose pogonias

Close up of one of the rose pogonias

We still weren't quite ready to leave the water, so we explored a shallow inlet near the boat launch. It ended in a low beaver dam. Across the swampy ground, towering above the alders, we could see a large beaver lodge.

A successful day of hiking for sure.

Dragonflies by Greg Westrich

Sunday I saw my first Elegant Spreadwing. A male with a metallic green head and a black rectangle on each wing. At least that's what I think it was. Dragonflies can be hard. It's usually easy to decide what group an individual is from, but many species in a given group are almost indistinguishable. In fact, the only sure way is to look at the sexual organs at the tip of the thorax under magnification. The guide I have (Dragonflies and Damselflies of the East by Dennis Paulson) has pages of drawings to compare.

To make identification even harder, males and females generally look different and young adults are often less or even differently colored. For example, there were several newly emerged spreadwings on the side of the dock that were pale green. 

Dragonflies have been active on Borestone Mountain since the beginning of June. Each week a new species emerges. Dragonflies are like butterflies. Each species has a specific window that the adults are around. Which makes sense if you think about it. An adult that emerges too early or too late will miss out on breeding--the point of the adult stage. 

Common Pondhawk

Common Pondhawk

Birds do the same thing, timing migrations and breeding. With birds, the idea is to have hungry babies when food is abundant. Since dragonflies don't care for their young, other considerations determine each species cycle.

Our world is an interlocking set of these cycles. Birds migrate to time the emergence of insects. Trees of a given species bloom to maximize cross pollination and beat the competition  in reseeding the forest floor.  Moose move around and breed in rhythm with the seasons and its various bounties. We humans mostly live in a world outside these rhythms--or at least an understanding of them. The closest most of us come is enjoying the ever-changing world around us.

Chalk-Fronted Corporal

Chalk-Fronted Corporal

So, this summer I'll track the rolling emergence of various dragonflies: Common Pondhawks, then Chalk-Fronted Corporals and Familiar Bluets, and now Elegant Spreadwings. I can't wait to see what's next.

Ebony Jewelwing (in Baxter State Park)

Ebony Jewelwing (in Baxter State Park)

Number Four Mountain and the trail to Baker Mountain by Greg Westrich

Today I hiked up Number Four Mountain. It's the only of the Lily Bay Mountains that is trailed. The AMC is working on changing that. They are in the process of cutting a trail from the top of Number Four over Baker Mountain and on to the trail network centered around the Lyford Ponds area.

Before I describe the hike, I want to update the driving directions to the Number Four Mountain trailhead. You can follow the directions in Best Easy Day HIkes Greenville, Maine or drive north of the Lily Bay Road from the blinking light in Greenville. After 13.4 miles turn right onto a well-used logging road. Drive 1.8 miles. Turn left onto Meadow Brook Road (there's no sign). Drive 2.2 miles with views of Number Four Mountain along the way. The trailhead is on the right (several signs); parking is across a bridge 0.1 miles farther. This route is quicker than the one I put in the guide. The road is pretty good, although there are a few places that are badly rutted. I made it easily in my Honda C-RV.

The hike up Number Four Mountain is easier than it used to be. Two years ago a whole bunch of switchbacks were added to the old fire warden's trail, which went straight up the side of the mountain. There are lots of wildflowers along the trail, including a large patch of jack-in-the-pulpits next to the long board walk a half mile into the hike. The summit ridge sports lots of blue bead lilies and bunchberries. Trillium are common. Along the summit ridge, an unmarked trail on the left (north) leads to a great view of Katahdin. 

Just past the summit, there's an overlook with a bench. There are great views of the Lily Bay Mountains, Moosehead Lake, and the mountains across the lake. It's the view that's on the cover of BEDH Greenville.

From the overlook, the trail descends and crosses the ridge that connects Number Four and Baker Mountains. The first 1.5 miles are blazed, finished trail. After that, the next mile is cut, but not yet blazed. There are lots of blow downs to navigate, but the hike is relatively easy. The trail crosses a snowmobile trail and begins to climb. Pretty soon the trail ends. Today the AMC trail crew of four was cutting the trail up the slope. The encouraged me to be the first to follow the new trail route. It's flagged another half mile over a knob on the shoulder of Baker Mountain with some semi-views to the AMC property line.

The crew told me that the AMC is waiting for the permit to continue the trail over Baker Mountain and on to Little Lyford Pond camps. I can't wait. The route is remote, passing through beautiful mixed forest with lots of ferns and wildflowers. I'm told there are ledges near baker's summit with spectacular views. I hope this trail is the beginning of the realization of Chris Keene's dream of a trail that circles Moosehead Lake. Now that would be a hike!

Common Pondhawks by Greg Westrich

I sat in a lawn chair inside the screen door. Outside a swarm of black flies did their best to get into the visitors center and suck my blood. It was a warm morning, but still cool where I sat. I felt guilty for being inside rather than outside gazing up at Borestone's west summit or looking for newts in Sunrise Pond.

An insect slowly crawled under the screen door toward me. It was dirty brown and about the size of a quarter. It moved unnaturally slowly, like it was unfamiliar with the world. Like it was a zombie bug. On its back were two bumps where its wings should have been. I carefully picked it up on a piece of paper and set it on the grass outside the door.

An hour later, I found it halfway up the side of the building. Its back had split and a huge head with green eyes had emerged. It was a dragonfly metamorphosing from larva to imago. Over the next several hours it worked its way out of larval exoskeleton, curling back on itself. It was an extremely slow process and looked painful.

Along the edge of the pond, other dragonfly larvae waited. They seemed unsure about leaving the water. Occasionally, one would poke its head out of the water only to slip back beneath the surface. More and more larvae collected on the rippled shale next to the dock in an inch of water.

By mid-afternoon, the original larva's wings had opened. It hung on the wall, drying them in the sun. The wings sparkled like mica. It flew clumsily from the wall and crash-landed in the grass. Other fresh dragonflies hung on bushes or lay in the grass. Soon they would be darting back and forth catching mosquitoes and black flies.

The next morning the dock was covered with empty shells. Hundreds of them. Somehow, all the dragonfly larvae got the message to molt at the same time. Several newly emerged dragonflies hung on the dock. Their wings were closed like those of a damsel fly. Once fully inflated, they would open--never to close again.

The dragonflies were Common Pondhawks. I wish them luck feeding on the black flies and mosquitoes, so there'll be fewer around to feed on me.

Green is a category, not a color by Greg Westrich

I was standing on the dock at Sunrise Pond on Borestone Mountain yesterday. It's my office for the summer. The morning air was cool, but the sun was strong. Black flies and mosquitoes swarmed around my head.

Across the pond, on the shoulder of the mountain, the hardwoods mixed in with the spruce and pine were glowing in the morning light. Leaves are like butterflies: early in the season their colors are vibrant and fresh, but as the season heats up and wears on they fade and lose their luster. In May and June, every kind of hardwood leaf has its own particular shade of green. The beech are almost yellow and seem to glow. The maples start how with a reddish hue. It's like the fall in reverse. The fact of the matter is that English simply doesn't have enough words to capture all the greens.

It was a slow day on the mountain, so I spent some time looking for greens. Okay, so I got distracted by the beaver swimming across the pond. And the frog croaking from the mossy shore near the dock.

Even the frog is several different greens. The visitors' center sits among a series of shale ledges. In the low spots between ledges, moss thrives. Other plants such as irises and painted trilliums grow up through the moss. Sometimes I think green was invented for moss.

I realized that even the water was green.

So before the heat of summer squeezes all the color out of Maine head into the woods and see how many greens you can find.

Lily Pad Pond by Greg Westrich

Some hikes are end-driven. You toil to a mountain top or waterfall. Other hikes are process-driven. It's the hiking that's captivating. I prefer the latter. I was thinking about this as I rehiked one of my new favorites in Baxter State Park. The hike from Kidney Pond to Windy Pitch Pond is all about the process. You hike through some of Baxter's most scenic country--or at least have great views of it.

The hike starts at Kidney Pond; you follow the Sentinel Connector Trail along the pond's south shore with great views of Katahdin.

After 1.3 miles, you turn away from Kidney Pond onto Lily Pad Pond. This trail leads a half mile to Beaver Brook. From here you have to paddle. (You get the key, PFDs, and paddles from the ranger at Kidney Pond. There's a small rental fee.)

Beaver Brook flows slowly through a large meadow of low bushes and alders. You can see Katahdin in the distance. This is a great place to see moose. A ten minute paddle brings you you to Lily Pad Pond.

Lily Pad Pond offers fine views of the mountains from Moose in the west the Katahdin in the northeast. The rounded hump of The Sentinel rises just to the west. You paddle across the pond to its east end. Near where the outlet stream disappears into an alder thicket on its short tumble to Nesowadnehunk Stream, you beach the canoe next to a large boulder.

The blue blazed Windy Pitch Pond Trail leads into the woods over a piney knoll. As you hike the sound of Niagara Falls gets louder and louder. A short, unmarked side trail leads to Little Niagara Falls.

Three tenths of a mile past the base of Little Niagara Falls, a side trail leads through mossy boulders to the top of Big Niagara Falls. Several unmarked trails give access to the top and base of the falls. Take time to explore the falls and the boulders in the woods. Look for blueberries in late summer.

The view of both falls from this hike are better than the views from the AT on the other side of Nesowadnehunk Stream.

From Big Niagara Falls, the trail drifts west away from the stream through a very mossy spruce forest. In spring look for wildflowers tucked in among the boulders and roots.

The trail ends on the north shore of Windy Pitch Pond. It's a small, nondescript body of water surrounded by dense forest. On the south shore a low cliff presides. The point of the hike isn't getting to this pond; it's the journey.

Out and back--hiking and paddling--it's just over six miles.

Northern Headwaters Trail by Greg Westrich

I have a confession to make. I tend to hold people who are only interested in hike that climb mountains with disdain. Peak baggers, New England 3000 footers, AMC's Maine Mountain Guide (as if the only hikes worth mentioning are up mountains), anyone with an altitude obsession: they're missing the point. The prejudice against rambling in the quiet woods makes me crazy.


These thoughts occupied my mind as I stepped around swampy ground and crumbling patches of snow along Goose Ridge Trail. Two weeks ago I hiked and mapped the Northern Headwaters Trail in Montville. Today, I returned to the preserve to map all the trails that lead in—Goose Ridge, Hemlock Hollow, and Whitten Field.


The woods are just waking from their winter slumber. Energetic rills rush down slopes into thawing bogs and beaver flowages. The maples are beginning to bloom, their twig tips turning deep red. Frogs are singing in the half-thawed vernal pools. Overhead, bright blue sunlight streamed down. I hiked in short sleeves for the first time.


I hiked over rocky outcrops and beneath old growth white pines. I never had to climb more than a hundred feet. As I was chugging up Whitten Hill, I realized that I had overlooked these trails when putting together Best Easy Day Hikes Camden. I included nearby Hogback and Frye Mountains, though. I had dismissed the Northern Headwaters Preserve because it has no mountains. I was one of those people who annoy me.


Don't make the same mistake. For your next outing, check out the Sheepscot Headwaters Trail Network and the nearby Bog Brook Trails.

Canned Beer by Greg Westrich

I won't drink beer out of a can. I came to that conclusion one chill, rainy night sitting around a campfire in West Virginia. I had driven from Maryland to hang out, hike, and cave with some friends from Ohio. I got to the National Forest campground before dark and made camp in the middle of a field. I made a fire in a light drizzle and sat, waiting for my friends to arrive. A person gets thirsty waiting in the rain, watching cloud tatters drift around Seneca Rocks. But Boonie was bringing the beer.


Well after dark, Boonie and the beer arrive. He brought Milwaukee's Best in cans. I drank about half a beer and swore I'd never drink beer out of a can again. I kept my promise for almost twenty years.


Recently, several Maine craft breweries began selling their beer in cans. I avoided them. Sorry, Baxter Brewing, but unless it's draft or in a bottle, I'll pass. But more and more craft brews were showing up in cans at the store. It was getting annoying, but I stayed strong. I'll sit in Mason's with a pint and a plate of dirty fries, but pass on their canned ale. And that porter from New Hampshire with the cool painting of birch trees on the can, it remained a mystery.


Last year I had a pint of Funky Bow's So Folkin' Hoppy IPA at a bar in Freeport. It tasted fresh and green with just the right amount of bitter aftertaste to make me wash it away with another drink. I'm a sucker for really hoppy ales.


Back home, I wanted more, but Funky Bow only sell their beer in cans. I took a chance and bought a six pack. I poured a Funky Bow into my favorite pint glass—the one from 50/50 Brewery in Truckee, California. It tasted just fine. In fact, it was cold and crisp like a freshly picked apple. The dam was breached. Now I regularly buy canned beer.


According to the experts, beer poured from a can is indistinguishable from beer poured from a bottle. That's been my experience. The problem all those years ago was that I drank the beer straight from the can. That and the fact that Milwaukee's Best sucks.

Peregrine Trail on Borestone Mountain by Greg Westrich

I intended to climb Number Four mountain and see if the trail continued all the way to Baker Mountain. Earlier this year the AMC bought a block of land that included the Lily Bay Mountains east of Moosehead Lake. They have plans to build of number of trails. The last time I climbed Number Four I noticed the trail kept going beyond the overlook near the summit. (The view from the overlook is on the cover of Best Easy Day Hikes Greenville.)

As I drove north, I noticed that all the mountains visible from Charleston Hill were draped with thick white clouds. I told myself they'd burn off by the time I got to Greenville. They didn't. When I got to Greenville, the clouds hung over the town like a heavy comforter. None of the mountains were visible. The air was chill, almost gray. It smelled like snow. 

When I got to Lily Bay, I realized that I didn't really want to hike in a cloud. So I turned around and headed back to Monson. The clouds had pushed far enough north to expose Borestone, so I headed there.

Mine was the only car in the parking area. I headed up the trail. A stiff wind shook the tree tops and rattled the dead beech leaves that hung on for dear life. By the time I reached the summit, Barren Mountain was mostly cloud-free. The White Cap Range was playing peek-a-boo. The Lily Bay Mountains were hidden completely beneath their fluffy blanket.

On the way down, I hiked the Fox Pen Loop. A great lollipop trail that passes through the area where the family that one owned Borestone raised foxes for fur. The trail crosses a small wetland popular with moose and beaver, skirts the base of high cliffs with a cool overhang, and Big Greenwood Overlook. Well, worth the extra mile.

I decided to hike out the "secret" trail to the lodge as well. The unmarked trail leaves from the rocks across from the visitor center and heads northwest along the shore of Sunrise Pond. (Right now there's a blue-tarp-covered stack of firewood at the trailhead.) The trail climbs gently away from the pond, passing over a rocky spine. A few tenths of a mile from the visitor center, there's a fork. The right hand trail is the employee only trail that follows the shore of Midday Pond to the lodge. The left hand trail is the Peregrine Ridge Trail. It climbs up to the top of the cliffs behind the lodge.

From the trail's end, there's a spectacular view of the surrounding country. The three pond are lined up beneath you with Borestone's naked summit in the distance.


Harriman Point by Greg Westrich

Harriman Point juts out into Blue Hill Bay in Brooklin. Most of the small peninsula is a Maine Coast Heritage Trust preserve. A new trail winds from the parking lot on Harriman Point Road through tall evergreens to Tinker's Lane. After walking through a gate, the hike follows the lane along Allen Cove. On the sunny day I was there, wintering mergansers floated in the shallow water.


At the end of the lane, trails lead left and right to rocky beaches on each side of the point. To the west, the trail ends where a series of tiny islands float in the clear water. Across Blue Hill Bay are the town and mountain the bay's named for. This is a great swimming spot—when it's warmer—especially when the tide is in.


The trail to the east leads to an arc of gravelly beach with a swampy pond behind it. Across the water, you have a fine view of Mount Desert Island. This too is a good swimming spot.


Where the lane ends, there's a semi-open area with several aged apple trees. On the day I was there, a small porcupine was in the brown grass near one of the trees. I thought it was dead. Flies buzzed around the small prickly ball, alighting on it spiny fur. I was about to poke it with my toe when I noticed it was breathing. I squatted down and looked more closely. It stirred but didn't wake. It probably passed out after gorging on fallen apples.


Some fall days are like a crisp apple hanging on a drooping branch. Others are more like that same apple lying in the brown grass two weeks later. Those ground apple days hint of the winter to come. The leaves abandon their perch and collect in crunching drifts. Rusty needles blanket the forest floor. Mushrooms burst from fallen logs and moist soil, spreading their spores before the season chills.


Spring is a noisy season of rushing transition. Fall moves much more quietly. Stone and broken shells grumbling beneath the pushing tide. Chickadees and nuthatches quietly calling as they feed. Shriveled oak leaves clattering against one another. Nothing shrill. No loud celebrations of new life. Just resignation that the wheel has turned again and life goes on.

Hills to Sea Trail by Greg Westrich

The Hills to Sea Trail wanders about 46 miles from Unity to Belfast. The Waldo County Trails Coalition—a group of nine local organizations—built and maintains the trail. At present, some of the route is roadwalking to connect woodland sections. It is designed to be a year round day hiking attraction bringing together the communities it passes through and those who come to hike.


Two sections of the trail—Hogback and Frye Mountains—are in one of my guides (Best Easy Day Hikes Camden).


The last weekend in October I dragged my son Henry on a hike to explore the section south of Freedom village. It was the first day of deer season, so we had on our orange. The trail enters the woods in someone's backyard across ME137 from the general store. Like many store's in rural Maine, it's also the local tagging station. As I organized my pack, someone drove in with a big buck to tag. A half dozen folks came out to watch it get weighed and tagged.


The trail climbed gently away from the village. For several minutes we could hear the swish of cars on the wet road. The woods were quiet. The wet leaves muffled our steps. Soon we were lost in the rythmn of walking. Here and there crumbling chunks of bedrock thrust from the ground. We crossed a spine of rock that was almost entirely white quartz. Hemlocks drooped in the fall chill.


The trail crossed a lichen-covered stone wall onto a pasture. Across the wide meadow, a white, clapboard church sat against the backdrop of an orange and green hill. We crossed another stone wall and re-entered the woods.


We turned back where the trail crossed Freedom Pond Road—the next section up and over Goose Ridge—was closed for hunting season. There hadn't been any mountain vistas, but it was a nice walk through a varied forest. On the way back I flushed a woodcock that fluttered noisily away. Later, we passed through a flock of nuthatches honking merrily to each other as they flitted from branch to branch.


For more information on the Hills to Sea Trail, check out their website at http://www.waldotrails.org/.